Wednesday, September 01, 2010
The Surf Diaries
Today I do the best I've done in 24 surf sessions. For the first time I feel like I'm actually standing, sliding, surfing on a wave. I'm up on one leg, but the rear leg is still bent for balance - in a classic, on yours marks, GET SET position. To get to go, I need to find finesse, and some extra balance. Losing weight will help, and to continue getting stronger and a sense of how the water, the board and me work together. It's taken a while to find the courage to catch the big swells, to be dumped to moer and gone, and to mix it with the tribe who know what they're doing. This best session yet was on a day when the wind was blowing offshore, meaning the sets were held up that bit longer, and the height was just that little bit higher than usual. Looking outside right now, the conditions are looking similar. Standby for go.