Friday, August 27, 2010
The Surf Diaries
I've changed. I realise this as I go paddling out among the boys in huge conditions. There was a time not so long ago when a former me would have looked at these waves and laughed. Or looked at the overcrowded conditions and shied away. I'm still a rookie, let's face it, but I'm putting myself in the zone and attempting sick surf. In these conditions, you have to be good. I have the balls perhaps, but I'm still rusty on balance, and direction. Balls are good. I do some breathtaking stunts which I'm sure would scoop a few thousand hits on Youtube.
At one point I catch a wave, on my hunches, and bail/fail very close to the concrete pipe jutting out into the rough water. The water is high and foamy so a lot of the concrete barrier is either submerged or not entirely in view.
Big wild swathes of boiling foam rumble towards me, my board tugging me powerfully backwards while I strain to gain a few feet in the opposite direction. For quite a while I am struggling. I'm going nowhere and I'm floating too close to comfort to a hard concrete platform. Panic is possible. Pain is too, as I'm kicking water and off my surfboard in an area where I know there are plenty of rocks.