Tuesday, August 03, 2010

The Surf Diaries

Picture courtesy Anton Joubert#21 Stand

Stand in the place where you live
Now face North
Think about direction
Wonder why you haven't before
Now stand in the place where you work
Now face West
Think about the place where you live
Wonder why you haven't before

If you are confused, check with the sun
Carry a compass to help you along
Your feet are going to be on the ground
Your head is there to move you around, so

At 14:52:57 on the 2nd of August 2010 I manage, on my 21st outing, to surf.  To stand, and ride a moving wave of water.

I've obviously grown tired of surfing in the soup on my own, away from the break because here I am queuing up at Pipe with the best of them.  The secret to surfing here is a section where the water bubbles up brown over some shallow rocks between the boardwalk and the sewerage pipe.  It's here that moving sets find shallow water and start to collapse, drawing down the walls on either side.  This is where you catch your ride, on the first fringe of white water. And this is where everyone wants to be.  It's a long paddle to get here, and once you're here, other okes try to sort of impose themselves on a good wave, even if you get there first.

My body is wasted from yesterday's 2 hour marathon but inspiration is getting the upper hand and is beating back the fatigue.  But there you have it - it's taken me 21 sessions to get to one half respectable stand.  I'm counting on the learning curve to get steeper from here.  Now I need to learn balance and as the lyrics go [above] think about direction.  WHOOHOOO!

No comments: